According to Samuel Johnson, the renaissance author and lexicographer, “when you grow tired of London you’ve grown tired of life.”
On Friday night I thought I’d grown tired of life.
I was feeling lonely, bored and just disinterested in everything. I had done a lot of work that day at the British Library, and then of course had a few pints at a local pub.
This is not a problem, except that real ale, as much as I love it, when it is pulled from a cask, is much less fizzy than force carbonated or even bottle conditioned stuff on tap or in a bottle. So it goes down really quickly. I was feeling a little, just slightly, sleepy.
They say that alcohol can be a depressant, so not surprisingly, when I got back to my very humid flat, made some dinner (which ramped up the heat a bit more) and then tried to contact my two friends who live here (actually former students who have pity on a visiting former professor of theirs) and was surprised to find that I had the evening to myself, I was a just a little bummed. I had no motivation to go out, since “out” was full of tourists, and everywhere seemed especially busy these days. It’s the beginning of high tourist season, when all the North American schools are out, and the families and kids and teens and university students pour into London, with the intent, I figure, of using it as a jumping off point for other places.
So, I sat in my tiny, humid, rented flat, bored and a little disheartened. That was until I got into a brief conversation on facebook with my now “ex,” (but still friend) KEL. She berated me gently for being a self pitying slug (my term), and told me to get out there and have an adventure. Not knowing how to do that, and thinking I’d lost my ability to do my own thing and enjoy it, I put on my mp3 player, loaded up some wandering music (read: Josh Ritter), and walked to the Regent’s Park. My reasoning (I always seem to need a reason) was to walk out the running route I’d take in the morning when I planned to go for a nice run over to said park.
I also bought some chocolate, which I hadn’t yet had on this visit, and which I love much more than waxy North American stuff.
Almost immediately, sugar, cocoa butter, and assorted additives, along with Josh Ritter’s songs, buoyed my spirits, and I began to walk. I got to Regent’s Park (which is a large park in the North corner of what you might consider the large touristy area of the city) and began wandering around. It was clearly a nearly tourist-free zone: groups playing pick-up cricket (really), I think I saw a wedding, and the many couples sitting under trees with picnics made me feel a little dejected again (read: “woe is me” lonely).
But then I got somewhere I didn’t expect: the open air theatre in the park. There is a big open air theatre in that park. Get it?: Theatre. Open air. The park.
Even better: they’re showing Macbeth and A Comedy of Errors. It’s not free, but it’s affordable. And Shakespeare in the park is something I almost always enjoy.
That night the play had begun, so I sat nearby, and read my newly-purchased issue of Time Out magazine. And with that I realized that I had become quite lazy in my pursuit of activities. Here was a list of Shakespeare, both Fringe and more mainstream “West End” or (just off West End) in production at any one time. Not to mention other great theatre.
I realized that I only have four weeks here (well, really three now) and there is only so much time to see good theatre here. Not that I’m starved for theatre at home. But I’ve only seen two plays in London, ever, in my nearly one dozen visits. One was the Mousetrap, which was crap–poor production values and shitty treatment by staff. It should be more properly entitled “The Tourist Trap.” The other was something I saw in the mid-90s at the Old Vic, and it was quite good though I can’t remember what it was. Maybe an Oscar Wilde?
So that’s it, I’ve not grown tired of London, or of life. I’ve just had to refocus. Pubs, crisps and work are not the only reasons to be here. The chocolate helps, too.






